Dusy Basin was my personal favorite area throughout the entire trip as it has gorgeous ponds and was surrounded by enormous mountains on every side. The trail to Piute Pass (11,423-ft.) ascends the lovely North Fork of Bishop Creek, passing photogenic Loch Leven and Piute Lakes along the way. Rattlesnakes are always possible; but with the popularity of the trail, rattlesnakes are rarely seen. Beautiful scenery, abundant water, breathtaking vistas. My inner dialogues attitude was quickly adjusted when I looked back from whence we cameMt. Completed hike Aug 14. September after Labor Day was a great time to make this trip, as the crowds had thinned but the mild climate lingered. Completed 14-17AUG. Did this in the opposite direction (South Lake to North Lake) and had a blast. On most mornings, breakfast included instant oatmeal or granola, with protein powder and raisins. Your email address will not be published. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. The total distance to Evolution Lake is about 10 miles. Recommend to everybody. The display of grand peaks, a broad, grassy meadow, and a gently meandering stream make the valley a popular destination. best of luck and make sure you are prepared. The map showed that it eventually merged into the South Fork San Joaquin River somewhere out of sight of the trail. Many thanks to her for this great post and pictures! I have done it over 4 days - 3 nights and my backpack was around 42 pounds. We headed over Piute Pass and into Humphreys Basin from the North Lake Trailhead. The river is nice to camp by here. The 56-chromosome karyotype associated with P. i. neglectus is generally larger than P. i. inornatus and has been identified from the western side of the San Joaquin Valley and the Carrizo Plain (Patton and Rogers 1993). Conditions were great! It was gorgeous. The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! Continue straight at this 3-way in Hutchinson Meadow. My wife and I did the trek in June with our 9 month old in tow. One time, we found beers in the Muir Hut with a note 'Take only one'. This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. Piute Pass. Campsites: Good sites along Evolution Creek by Evolution Meadow, McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow. Leave the JMT, and follow the drainage up to Darwin Canyon. In other words, I was probably dehydrated. Evolution Valley has always been high on my list of things to do. Call me crazy, but theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with your friends sharing sugar and a swig. Privacy Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. I took off my shoes and let my damp feet dry out in the breeze. Having two cars so as to shuttle between trailheads made the logistics a lot easier. To become a member of the SPS, one must be a Sierra Club member and have climbed at least six peaks on the SPS List; it is not necessary that the peaks be Emblem peaks. On our way back down we hike about 13 miles and set up camp for the last night. Piute Pass was comparatively easy with just a few snow patches. Piute Creek Crosing: Bridge at Piute Creek Crossing: Layers: Western juniper, and its cones: My two recommendations. the mouth of Evolution Valley. This was fortunate, because I dont think we could have walked any further even if you told us there was free cold beer around the next bend served by Matthew McConaughey. Us silly girls didnt expect something for nothing did we? At Piute Pass, we headed off trail toward Muriel Lake, then Alpine Col, which takes the hiker to the gorgeous Darwin Lakes and Darwin Bench area. I want to hike West to East in the lowest part of the evolution valley, beginning at Edison Lake. And it felt like it. Located in California's beautiful eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, Inyo National Forest offers challenging trails, high mountain peaks, and unparalleled views. Scale: 1:47,520 or inch representing 3/4 mile. I kept hoping to find a side stream, but all of the obvious places were dry as a bone. We hiked this trail June 5th to the 7th. That was the new plan, I decided. The Section maintains historic summit registers at Bancroft Library on the University of California, Berkeley campus.. Id see how I felt when I got to the the trail junction. 110 Piute Pass Trail junction, 17 mi. ALLTRAILS and the AllTrails Mountain Design are registered trademarks of AllTrails, LLC in the United States as well as certain other jurisdictions. When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. The trail starts at North Lake (9,276'), soon enters the John Muir Wilderness, and ascends to Piute Pass (11,423') in four steep miles. Hike through spectacular Evolution Basin Marvel at views from Muir, Bishop and Piute Passes Explore remote lakes and ridges Includes Group cooking gear and bear-proof food containers Vegetarian-friendly meals and snacks Campsites and all permits Overview The Trip "How glorious a greeting the sun gives the mountains! As we got going again I was giving myself a pretty serious mental pep talk about taking it easy and giving myself the time needed to work my way up the 700 feet of rocky switchbacks. I set up my tent and got my gear situated inside. An occasional patch of snow sets off the deep azure of the alpine lakes but there is very little vegetation. I climbed down off my hilltop aerie and walked along the southern shore of Evolution Lake. Glaciers clung to the northern slopes of the mountains, feeding small waterfalls. $3,395: Description Itinerary Resources The John Muir Trail is one of the finest hikes to be found anywhere in the world. to North Lake Road, 20 mi to Pine Creek 856 110 to 114 SEKI - Goddard (28) Aspen Meadow & Goddard Creek Junction 851 to 855 114 to 121 SEKI - McClure Meadow (33) Evolution Valley, McClure, and Colby Meadows 845 to 851 121 to 127 SEKI - Evolution Basin (34) Evolution Lake, Wanda Lake, to Muir Pass 838.5 to . We did it over 4d/3n (south lake to le conte, le conte to sapphire lake, sapphire lake to the junction with Piute pass trail, and then out to north lake on the last day). When Hikers Die, Why Are We So Quick to Judge. It tasted cold and fresh. The long circuitous way, but entirely on trails, from this trailhead goes over Piute Pass (11,423 ft.) descends through Humphrey Basin along Piute Creek to the John Muir Trail (at 8,000 ft.). I heard it thundering off to the side of the trail and went over to check it out, and Im glad I did. Day 5: Cushy Day was followed by Payback Day. The trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass. We put in about 11.5 miles but it was almost all downhill or level deep-forest hiking. Day 4: Rest and explore. kelly e. No matter how heavy my pack is I always leave room for some whiskey. It was breathtaking up there. John Muir Trail, Evolution Valley, and Goddard Canyon access point. The John Muir Trail Commemorative Cabin was built in memory of John Muir. Lots of mosquitos in some areas. The mosquitoes were intense in certain areas. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. It was a smooth and quick process. The canister is a whole lotta bulky but is worth its weight should a bruin decide hed like some chocolate with his berries. Your email address will not be published. The forest and meadows of Evolution Valley had been very beautiful, as had the waterfalls along the way. The hike to Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times. Wished we could have camped at Evolution Lake as it's sooooo beautiful but it didn't work out for us. Not only that, but the trail was going to head even lower as I followed the river downstream. Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. Ooops! My mood was improving by the minute! Then it was hot, and I sweated out what little water I had. Good campsites can be found there also. They were having a seriously fun time on a hot Summers Day. Was it this heavy yesterday? Absolutely beautiful. Another 1.5 miles up the canyon is the turnoff to Evolution Valley. My AllTrails recording showed 59.4 miles at the termination point (South Lake overnight parking lot) with over 10,000' elevation gain. A number of camp sites here. My girlfriends told me I started singing gospel at that point, but I really think they may be exaggerating. Day 6: In the morning the sun popped over Piute Pass and we were instantly warmed and reluctant to pack up and head back out into civilization less than 7 miles away. 6 days / 5 night. There were hikers with quick-drying shoes that just walked right in, but most of us had a chance to talk as we dried our feet. There are several decent camping spots in the meadow and they are all next to heavy-flowing Piute Creek. We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. There must have been many more waterfalls on the way down, but, sadly, that wasnt part of my plan for the day. Erika, the alpine pond photograph posted next to the Day 2 text is stunning. Again, I will say that there is plenty of water the whole way, so drink up. It was great to get back and do another hike in the High Sierra. There are possible campsites on Darwin Bench. Membership. On the way back, check out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical! Maybe if I waited a bit the sun would be at a lower angle as I headed north, so that the trees would have longer shadows for me to rest in. Grand views of the high sierra. Several of our trails give entry to the John Muir Trail or Pacific Crest Trail with the opportunity to trek in the longest roadless section of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. I drank a lot of water. But, conditions are still challenging. I jumped up and pumped them for information. Slept like a drunken sailor. Nineteen miles from the nearest trailhead, Evolution Valley is a two-day hike for most backpackers. Tehipite Valley Trail: Begins at Wishon Reservoir. The Vanderbilt Mine is located partly on private land in the San Bernardino County, two miles west of California-Nevada state lines in the New York mountains four miles southeast of the Ivanpah valley within the Mojave National Preserve. The traditional route goes over Piute Pass and down through Humphreys Basin, taking a long time before turning the corner and climbing up to Evolution Valley. Bugs werent that bad. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. Oh ya, chill and take your time. The trail immediately climbed high above the creek, and stayed there, perched on the canyon wall. Piute Creek to Evolution Creek, 3.5 miles Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. There were only 2-3 times where I needed to use my AllTrails app to figure out the correct way to continue. 7/19/2014 - 17.03 miles, 2,992 AEG - Piute Bridge to Evolution Creek The day started with a six mile roundtrip hike to Muir Trail Ranch to obtain our resupply. my 21-year-old daughter. I was definitely overheating, and simply wanted to take a long rest. Permits issued from the White . At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. What a sight! omg. We offer this guided journey in three itineraries: 3-day Ultralight 4-day Backpacking (July 23-26, 2022) 5-day Backpacking (July 16-20, 2022) But the Ionian Basin is a very special place for backcountry skiers, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable peaks. The Edit Last Edited by tomripley30 Sights to See North Lake Campground Stock Camp Summit Lake I would head up the trail. 2 trip report day 0-4: getting in & Yosemite National Park warm up. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. We took four full, plus two half days, to hike the 57-mile route starting at South Lake and ending at North Lake, so 10-12 miles each day was the score. Bishop and Muir Pass are still very snowy. For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. I left the trail to follow right along the creek, and took way too many photos and videos. So we caught the 9:00am ferry across and bought a few things in the little store there. Trailhead: Florence Lake, 84 miles east of Fresno, elevation 7,300 feet Day 3: Today was another up and over day. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. Lakes and rivers were full due to late snowmelt. 27, 28, 33 and 34, T. 15 N., R. 14 E., S. B. M., on the east slope of the Ivanpah range of mountains, in Mescal Mining District, 8 miles north of Cima. The SteriPen uses UV light to kill the germs. Saw plenty of deer, and other hikers saw a few bears in the meadows. lots of water sources so no worries there but u must have enough water to go by as you will drink alot. We also brought along dark chocolate and tequila for special-treat nights. Dawn on Piute Pass Back toward Pilot Knob West side, baby! Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California. We found the trailhead about 1/3 mile away and hiked a few miles to Loch Leven. John Muir Wilderness sign in the Sierra National Forest good-bye Kings Canyon National Park! Camp at Wanda! The ferry was not running yet. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. Some of the best are right at the outlet with a view both down into Evolution Valley, and back up the Basin, though those were taken when we arrived, even at that early hour (mostly people staying there for several days it seemed). I used my water like always. Once there, you will want several days to enjoy the tranquility of the valley and explore the surrounding lakes, canyons, and peaks. There were several wet crossings during the first three or four miles. Though cooler than July, day-wear was still shorts and t-shirts and nights two layers and a puffy jacket. You can learn more about her travels with her husband, Mitch, on CruisingSailors.com. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that may have been made. Pingback: Tahoe hiking: Bay View to Azure Lake. Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. I sat down on a boulder near my gear and got out some snack. This great hike to scenic Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Piute Crags to a beautiful lakes basin tucked beneath Mt. We passed more than a dozen lakes some of which I will mention when I upload photos. When I walk through this area again, perhaps I will do the same so I can see it from another perspective. This was hands down one of the best hikes I've done in the High Sierras. Now I can say, beeen there in a sing-song tone suggesting my best time ever in the land of granite. Crest Piute Pass, then drop down toward Summit Lake. Good campsites can be found along the river beyond the Piute Creek bridge. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. Beautiful and challenging in a good way. Okay, I need my camera again. At night, Id comb through maps by headlamp, creating my ultimate ticklist for the parks. Monday, they crossed 11,500-foot Piute Pass. Pictures posted. When we finished our descent and arrived at the ranger station in the deep forest of Le Conte Canyon we also reached the junction on which the trail merges with the Pacific Crest Trail(PCT)/ John Muir Trail. Wanda(sorry if mistaken) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face. Thousands upon thousands of happy people enjoying the wilderness. Our goal was Sapphire lake, but there was still a ton of snow over the 4th and we didnt have proper snow gear to cross over the pass from Evolution lake to Sapphire lake. There's no reason to hurry -- it's such awesome, varied country. I decided to stop for lunch a short ways ahead, and hung out in the shade next to the water with a couple of PCT hikers that Id spoken to earlier. Amazing. Note: Bishop Pass hikers will encounter dozens deer skeletons on the steep slope below Bishop Pass. Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. Sign up for Outside+ today. Why cant I breathe? They were hustling right along. Anon. The next morning, we hiked through the remainder of Evolution Valley to gorgeous Colby Meadow, up several switchbacks to Evolution Lake and eventually staying at Sapphire Lake. On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). It is visible from the trail, but some hikers have walked past it without noticing it. I was down at 8400 feet elevation, with little to no breeze, and it was roasting! It took us a little over five days (as schedued) to complete the hike. Campsite 2: Just past the footbridge over Piute Creek, set up camp on these designated pads. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. Piute Pass Trail - North Lake Beginning in lodgepole pine and quaking aspen, the trail follows the creek at the foot of Piute Crags and Mount Emerson. Of course, the unforgettable moments started to pile up as we descended into Evolution Basin and then officially into the hanging valley of Evolution. That pond is the same pond I had lunch at last year descending from Bishop Pass into Le Conte Canyon. Plentiful water (I never carried more than 16 oz.). For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. We puzzled about the cause. North to South Lake is the easiest way to go with passes not too difficult. This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. Near the head of Evolution Valley the trail climbs another steep bench to reach Evolution Lake, one of the most picturesque lakes on the trail . We slept near the shores of Evolution Lake. I climbed upward for two miles without seeing a single decent campsite, either. Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux From there we day packed to evolution lake the third day. Lots of camping spots with water so you can make your day as long or short as you like. History. Lunch at Evolution Lake. The Evolution Loop is a magnificent route through some of the most inspiring terrain in the High Sierra. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. There was a traditional wide and shallow ford. We would love to be back again sometime. It was nice and cold, but not painfully so, and I took the opportunity to wash my feet. Great Trip! But we didnt see any rangers. In the Spring of a snowy year it must be incredible. Evolution Valley was about four miles long, and descended from 10,000 to 9,000 feet elevation, which was quite a mellow grade, and definitely below the treeline. contour 80 feet UTM zone 11 Customers Like You Also Purchased USA Highways Wall Map $10.95 Custom Radius Maps $175.00 Island Visions $39.99 Rides of a Lifetime: Southwest by MAD Maps $16.95 however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. The hike isn't strenuous, and even the switchbacks didn't feel that bad. Then I continued north. The year 2021 was certainly one of the driest in a long time, as it was early July and the hills were bone dry. slightly uphill or slightly downhill, varying. 5 trip report day 12-16: Muir Trail Ranch to Onion Valley Trailhead. Trailhead to Piute Lake Distance from Trailhead: 7.0 miles (round trip) These Photos Prove It. The next morning, we continued on the Piute Trail and crossed the bridge onto the John Muir Trail (JMT) where we were paralleling a fast-moving San Joaquin River located within the Kings Canyon National Park. Did this a decade ago and want to do it again! A boat-taxi across the lake is available from the trailhead in the summer. The Sierra Peaks Section was established in 1955. Aahhh! beautiful. Required fields are marked *. Very scenic. I never made it that deep into the backcountry that summer. Just needed a puffy jacket, could skip the fleece. Piute Pass 01:05:00 Hutchinson Meadow 02:18:02 Piute Canyon/JMT Junction 3:13:44 Goddard Canyon Junction 3:50:59 McClure Meadow Ranger . I wasnt thrilled, but I figured that there would be a side creek somewhere along the way, as the map showed some possibilities. At mile 5.5 we crossed the river again and took a short break at the base of a long series of switchbacks that would bring us up to Evolution Valley. Following the PCT southward another 4 miles will bring you to Evolution Meadow. We descended down Muir Pass which seemed endless until camping near the Le Conte Ranger Station. Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. Yay! Maybe if I was lucky there would be a breeze. From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Elevation gain: 2200 feet The Best backpacking hike ever! Push to camp spots near the McClure Meadow ranger station; you will be rewarded with the best breakfast scenery the next day (night 2). Would recommend to anyone wanting to experience the High Sierras. Over Piute pass has one patch of snow to cross and it was also a non-issue. Stargazing out in the Evolution Valley should be on everyone's bucket list. I also set an early alarm. The most challenging part of the hike was crossing the river. The Florence Lake Store carries basic food and camping supplies. First it is ridiculed. I did a backpacking trip over the 4th of July weekend over 4 days, starting at Florence Lake, going up to Evolution Lake. Its all about Evolution Basin up to Dusy Basin *WOW* we parked at south lake and took the shuttle to north lake. Completed this loop South - North May 26-29. Just what I didnt need. Personally, I simply call it a crazy, beautiful valley with great views. Shortly after passing Colby Meadow and reaching McClure Meadow, we were served the best views of The Hermit, a distinctly steep monolith, and Mt. 4 trip report day 8-12: Red's Meadow Resort to Muir Trail Ranch. First, it was a suggestion, and then it was an item on my Someday List. I was overjoyed, and felt a million times better. After that, I was down on the floor of Evolution Valley. On our way back we crossed even more upstream, and thank goodness we did, because it was a lot shallower there (water came up right below my hips) which made it much easier to cross. I took a break on the edge of the meadow and got out my map. counter-balance method. Campsite 4: Darwin Canyon. We parked at Lake Sabrina, hiked up past the Tyee Lakes to South Lake and then completed the loop clockwise. Campsites: Lake Georg, Long Lake, descent down from Dusy Basin, Helen Lake, McLure Meadow, Puite Canyon Trail, Summit Lake. 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