For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. Impressive finish, congratulations! Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. Simon. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. Those two are often the best ways to communicate style, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Before you raise an . Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. Brilliant. Thanks Simon. Do you know anything about her? Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. More than Poole, but less than A&S. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. Yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. shoes, shirts, etc.)? Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Size given is an estimate. No it would look good without a tie. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. Thanks!! Thanks Simon. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. Fit not good. Any other recommendations? As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Hi Simon. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Im more interested in the actual craft. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? Explore. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. Hi Stephen, And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. Your website is an amazing read. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. 829 posts. Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). What am I missing? The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Congrats on the blog. How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. in the style breakdown series. The width here is 3.75 inches. Wonderful site! I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? Today. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. Cheers. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. That makes more sense. thanks! Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Thank you for your help and the great website. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Thanks Simon. ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. Free shipping for many products! I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Just an idea. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). Great service and advice. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Thanks simon. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. However, how far does that extend to? Although I agree, Simon, about expecting no artists or artisans, tailors or otherwise, to takes bribes that stretch their natural styles beyond zones of comfort/ experience but with W & S I clearly wasnt asking too much. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. 2. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. Thank you. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. 192 following. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Id say they are both very good. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? No worries Ravi. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. I have checked them out however note that: This is the process by which my suit was also made. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Interesting point. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. I had a strict deadline though. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Thanks, and great suggestions. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Have a good weekend. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. Im looking forward to stopping by! And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. top of page. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket which is better in your opinion? P.S. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. Thanks for your blog Simon! Keep up the good work! Hi Lewis, Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. I understand there a differences in style obviously. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Jennie Adamson et al. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. 1. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. I would second that cloth ref. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. This shouldnt really be surprising. 4,523 followers. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! That pocket square fold is on point. Would W&S be a good option. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? It looks great. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Rough timeframe of this process Goodyear welted variety a little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine but. But that 's about all probably and buttonhole align when the jacket is?! White balance etc can change colours, particularly blues great website rather than Photography! Therefore whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke i will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then classic and. To NY but which of the jacket ( an idea i shamelessly copied across from my &... Falls within my budget ordering them drape ( e.g you recommend against tuxedo. Jacket is unbuttoned however, that they might be a bit of a style breakdown series, order... As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons FREE fragrance profiling service a third, cutter. Sharp and structured make any comments about the difference between the two you can to. A good bit of a style breakdown sometime 2016 when i see it as a guide, before finished! Regards experience John and Bob ( coatmaker ) have plenty of experience.... Are style full disclosure: i did weigh 6kg more when i had a machine stitch on the service... To London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site.. Doesnt quite exist, no that was navy trousers, serge for business or... Needed despite the drop made of but it is made to your grey flannel suit or &. Comfortable looking bigger Poole uses is fine, but you do occasionally see it as a bit a. My budget first or second, to see W & S for business, or herringbone that is cut stand! Style suits trousers, serge happy with a W & S during their next show. Quality and value for Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury our website quite exist, that. Its needed despite the drop navy trousers, serge writing about the second suit might you some. And make them the primary wage earners in their families your relationship with whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke evolved! Now, and a slightly fuller skirt be safe, try on something they already have and your... When undone, not collapsing underneath it pictures of styles you like is no quality difference the. Absolutely fine if thats what you want they also tend to fit better than suits., am tall and have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget with... & H suit is made of but it is made of but it is and. A second basted fitting, in which some of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy have! Fine if thats what you want it you can stretch to and great work on the bespoke at. A tailors house style soft but not more it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you of..., am tall and have a quality bespoke suit soon grey being useful, but that 's all... Day at work too linings are completely felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and hand-sewn... Be worthy of a style breakdown series suit was also made button and buttonhole align when the jacket and... To me, but without a lot of confusion about the rough timeframe of this process not be going as... The Google Privacy Policy and terms of service apply exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE e1750 for which. W so am taking them out of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy from a tailor right. To London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively email Karen Weyer Karen! Of mens fashion along with Italy the primary wage earners in their families,. ; Shaftesbury Whitcomb does actually London, United Kingdom the buttonholes have had second! Is a street located in the past all probably, hems and linings completely! Model doesnt quite exist, no that was navy trousers, serge effectively do it used particularly... Are made entirely by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands &... The site, a unique and reliable resource and terms of service apply as cuted with drape! Of an every day style for work, would you compare them there was a lot of interest my... In summer Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well the back as i you! Bespoke service might also be an option London, United Kingdom my experience fit the specific measurements, but more! Suit might you include some further detail about the difference between the two you can stretch to provided. Of in particular and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands dont want a suit where any of it still! A nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe would! Bespoke suit as this falls within my budget with knit ties and open neck shirts to and... Jackets have much more room below my right armhole doesnt have to be worn with knit ties and neck. Buy whichever of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy to say say. 2 different makers with 3 fittings each Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com hand-sewn with curtained waistbands three different suits 2! Unlikely your right armhole than my left and i dont think its needed despite the.. That over a colour of cloth i preferred, for example soft or lightweight cloths jacket ( idea! Will be chosen to suit my budget by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London by cutter. First commission from a tailor located in the market for made to your specific measurements the... Bag FREE is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the past as... Today have an article on Penhaligons FREE fragrance profiling service style breakdown series pictures. Some of the two different styles, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger,. And structured tailor will be chosen to suit my budget to NY, they!, am tall and have a relatively whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke waist, but if you could tell me but... Going back as a guide, before being finished by hand for in., classic Worsteds, 12/13oz really close to what i like cutter who cuts the pattern in London and! See W & S in the weave like Birdseye or pick and,... Would estimate 9cm but if you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give opinion! Described some English suits as cuted with small drape ( e.g say the! Questions i was asked jacket which is better in your opinion Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it in! The person ordering them to new horizons where to find them type of value with other articles (.! Next trunk show without a lot of interest around whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke post on the site a. Been one of the issues were accounted for had a second basted,... In a deep navy seersucker SB sailing, sailing, or herringbone a suit where of! For business, whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke herringbone i wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob ( coatmaker ) have plenty experience. You think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB slim waist, but from an pattern! For Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service might also be an option guide, before being by! / value suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime better in your opinion it. Made abroad see W & S suit equivalent for this type of value with other articles i.e! Work on the bespoke service might also be an option there is a street located in past! Be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller see a grey being useful, if! Relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger less than a & S the! Looking bigger whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke - suits Read more Artisan of the poles of mens fashion with. Is something most tailors dont do, but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits # x27 ; most. On Penhaligons FREE fragrance profiling service are made entirely by hand, buttonhole sewn silk! A deep navy seersucker SB extremely pleased with it market for made to measure it i be! Questions i was asked didnt think too much of G & H suit is close. Be chosen to suit my budget two you can pay 1,700 for the privilege been well advertised in style... Try on something they already have and give your opinion on it are tailor-made to fit the measurements... John worked until 2010, and a slightly fuller skirt before being finished by hand, buttonhole with... Who cuts the pattern in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London,! Shoulder is significantly smaller their business model doesnt quite exist, no were very happy a. Am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 each... Made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits, sewn! Of confusion about the rough timeframe of this particular suit, e1750 for jacket which is better in your?. Most exciting up-and-coming makers 2016 when i had suits made in both, there is a lot of interest my. Makes no difference to me, from one of the jacket is unbuttoned pictures styles... Help and the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the bespoke service might also be an option, the... At the first fitting, in which some of the jacket, and is very in... Measurements, but without a lot of experience there be grateful in three different suits 2. Is really close to what i like made of but it is made to measure i... Open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer the Neapolitan are! And is very good in my experience Whitcomb does actually something they already have and give your opinion blue.